5 Common Fixes for Squeaky Floors: Pros and Cons

There is a certain level of frustration that is associated with a squeaky floor. However, the squeaky floor is not a crisis. It is not damaging in the least. However, with each time you walk on that part of the floor, especially when you are walking around the house in the middle of the night, it is as though the floor is announcing your presence to the rest of the people in the house.

I had a squeaky floor in the house that I used to stay in. The squeaky floor was quite embarrassing, especially when I had people visit me. However, I was curious about what was happening with the squeaky floor. After finding out what was happening with the squeaky floor, I found that it was quite easy to fix the squeaky floor. Ten minutes and some talcum powder from the kitchen later, the squeaky floor was fixed.

The vast majority of squeaky floors are due to wood on wood, whether it is the floorboards, a loose nail, or the subfloor separating from the joist underneath. Knowing what the problem is, the solution is quick, easy, and inexpensive, and it will last forever.

The guide below will give you 5 solutions for how to fix a squeaky floor, and I will give you the good, bad, and ugly so that you know the difference between a solution and a quick fix.

Why Floors Squeak — The Real Cause

The squeak results from the rubbing of two pieces of wood, along with the application and release of pressure. The friction between the two pieces of wood results in the squeaking sound. Knowing the two pieces of wood that are rubbing against each other would lead to the determination of the solution to fix the squeak.
The three major causes of squeaks on the floor of an average house:

• Floorboards rubbing against each other – the squeaks occur as a result of the expansion and contraction of wood, caused by changes in humidity and temperature.
• A loose nail – If you have a flooring nail that has become loose with time, the board will move up and down on the loose nail with each step you take, thereby squeaking. The board is perfectly fine, but the nail has lost its hold.
• The subfloor is coming loose on the joist – The subfloor is the plywood material that constitutes your floor. If the subfloor comes loose from the wooden joist that it rides on, it will squeak with each step you take on it. This is the most common cause in new homes.

Key Insight: Squeaks that occur only during winter months and disappear during summer are usually caused by wood shrinkage in dry and cold air, creating minute gaps. These are ideal for lubrication solutions. Squeaks that occur all the time are more structural in nature and require a physical solution, such as the use of nails or screws.

What You’ll Need

You won’t need everything on this list — it depends on your floor type and which method applies. Read through the methods first and then gather what you need.

• Talcum powder or powdered graphite – $2-4. This will be used in the lubricant method.
• Finish nails (2-inch) – $3-5. This will be used in the nail method, especially for hardwood floors.
• Hammer – This will be used to drive the finish nails into the floor.
• Nail set – This is a small punch tool that will be used to drive the nails below the surface of the floor. $4-6.
• Wood filler – This will be used to fill the holes after the nails have been removed. $5-7.
• Drill, 1-5/8 inch drywall screws – This will be used in the screw method from below. The screws should be long enough to reach the joist, but not long enough to go through the floor.
• Squeeeeek No More kit – $15-20 at Home Depot. For squeaks under the carpet. Includes a special drill bit and breakaway screws.
• Stud finder – $15-20. To locate joists from above when fixing subfloor squeaks.

Pro Tip: Before you go out and spend money on anything, you can try the talcum powder solution, which will cost you almost nothing and will work surprisingly well on many squeaks that can be solved in this way. Only resort to the more complicated solutions if the talcum powder solution doesn’t work.

Step 1: Locate and Identify the Squeak

Walk slowly over the squeaky area and pay attention to where it is loudest. Mark it with a piece of tape for easy location later. This may sound obvious, but it is surprisingly hard to determine where a squeak is, due to the nature of sound traveling through the floor and appearing to emanate from a greater area than it really is.

Is it a surface squeak or a subfloor squeak?

Put yourself down on the floor and press down hard with your hand on the squeaky spot while another person walks across the floor. If the squeak goes away, it is a rubbing of the boards, and it can be repaired from the surface. If it doesn’t, it is something that is happening below the surface, in the subfloor or joist area.

Do you have access from below?

If you have access from below, such as in the case of a basement directly below the area with the squeaky floor, you have the best and easiest solution to your problem. Have someone walk across the area with the squeaky floor while you observe from below. In many cases, you can see exactly what is happening.

Pro Tip: Go ahead and shine a flashlight from underneath and watch the subfloor as a person walks on top of it. If you can see the subfloor moving or flexing in a certain spot, that’s where you want to focus. Take mental note of that spot, and you can even mark it with some chalk to point it out when you’re ready to address it.

Method 1: Talcum Powder or Graphite (Quickest Fix)

This is where I start every time, and it works more often than you think, especially on old hardwood floors where the wood is rubbing against other wood.
Sprinkle talcum powder (baby powder) or powdered graphite over the area where the squeak is happening on the floor. Using a stiff brush, an old toothbrush, or your fingers, rub the powder into the cracks between the floorboards. Stomp back and forth over the area several times to get it worked in as deep as possible.
Wipe off the extra powder with a damp cloth. Stomp back and forth over the area again to test it.

What it fixes: rubbing of boards against each other. It lubricates the area where the boards meet and reduces friction.
What it doesn’t fix: loose nails, movement of the subfloor, or structural issues. The powder will wear off over time if the issue is movement as opposed to friction.
How long it will last: months to years depending on the issue. Some floors will be fixed permanently by this solution. Others will need to be reapplied on a yearly basis.

Pro Tip: Powdered graphite, which is often used for lubricating locks, is even more effective than talcum powder in eliminating squeaky noises, since it is a dry lubricant and will penetrate more deeply. It is available in the hardware section of Home Depot for about $3.

Method 2: Drive Finish Nails at an Angle

If the powder method didn’t solve it, the squeak is likely coming from a loose nail or a board that needs to be secured more firmly to the subfloor beneath it. Driving finish nails at opposing angles — called toe-nailing — pulls the board tight and eliminates the movement.

How to Do It

1. Location of the Joist – It is important that you locate the location of the floor joist that runs underneath the squeaking board. You can do this by using a stud finder. It is also important that you drive your nails into the joist for this to be effective. Typically, the joists run perpendicular to the floorboards and are 16 inches apart.
2. Pre-drill the Hole – It may also be important that you pre-drill the hole, especially when it comes to hardwood flooring. Make sure that you use a drill bit that is smaller in size compared to your nails.
3. Drive Two Nails at Different Angles – It may also be important that one of your nails is driven at a 45-degree angle forward while the other one is driven at a 45-degree angle backward.
4. Set the nail heads – tap the nail heads down with a nail set so they are just below the surface of the wood. This will keep them from catching on your socks, and you can fill them in.
5. Fill and finish – fill the nail holes with wood filler that matches your floor color.

Pro Tip: Pick your wood filler color wisely before buying – most Home Depot locations have wood filler in a dozen different wood tones. Hold the can against your floor and compare to select the best match. The goal is to conceal the nail holes from standing height.

Safety Warning: Use a stud finder prior to nailing. It is hazardous to nail into a joist that has an electrical wire or plumbing pipe running through it.

Method 3: Screw From Below (Best Fix for Subfloor Squeaks)

If you can get to your basement or crawl space, this is the way to go, and it is completely invisible from above since all of the action takes place from below. This will pull the subfloor down tight against the joist and eliminate the squeak that is taking place as a result of the subfloor flexing away from the joist.

1. Have someone personally stand on the squeaky spot upstairs, and as they are putting pressure on it, observe from below. You will be able to see or feel exactly where the subfloor is flexing away from the joist.

2. Locate the spot from below. Put a mark on the joist and the area where the squeak is with chalk or a pencil.
3. The screw length is vital. Measure the distance from the bottom of the joist to the top of the finish floor and subtract ¼ inch. The screw has to hold the subfloor in position without piercing holes in the floor. What you need is a 1-5/8 inch drywall screw, which is useful in most construction tasks.
4. Screw up through the joist and into the subfloor, at an angle if possible, to locate the area where the subfloor is being lifted. Screw in until the subfloor is tight against the joist. Your assistant will inform you when the squeak stops.
5. Test the area from above. Walk on the area. If the squeak still exists, drive another screw 2-3 inches away from the previous one in the same joist.

Key Insight: The reason for preferring the screw from below method is that it is invisible, permanent, and does not touch the finish floor at all. If you have access to your basement, it is recommended that you first try this method before attempting it from the top.

Method 4: Squeeeeek No More (Through Carpet)

If your squeak is under your carpet and you do not have access to your basement, there is a Squeeeeek No More kit that is meant for this situation. It is available at Home Depot for $15 to $20. This kit has everything you will need.
This kit uses a special screw that goes down through your carpet and subfloor into your joist. Once in place, the head breaks off, so it does not catch on your carpet. Then the shaft tightens your subfloor against your joist.

1. Find the Joist – Use a stud finder to find the joist under the carpet. Mark the spot where the joist is with painter’s tape. You will then be able to feel where the joist is under the carpet.
2. Place the Depth Guide – A plastic depth guide is included in the package. Place it on top of the carpet where the joist is.
3. Drive the Screw – Use the screw driver bit to drive the breakaway screw through the depth guide, carpet, and into the joist.
4. Snap Off the Screw Head – Use the side of the depth guide to snap off the screw head below the carpet surface.
5. Fluff the Carpet – Use a coin or your hands to fluff the carpet over the small hole. It will then be completely invisible in a matter of seconds.

Pro Tip: Squeeeeek No More comes with 50 screws, and that is a whole house full of squeaks waiting to be eliminated. If you have multiple areas in your home that have squeaks, mark them all and eliminate them in one sitting, as this is a reusable kit and these screws can last you years.

Method 5: Fix Squeaky Stairs

Stair squeaks are just a little bit different from floor squeaks. They are almost always due to the tread (the horizontal part you walk on) rubbing against the riser (the vertical part behind it) or the stringer (the angled side piece).

Repair by Intervention from Above (Accessible Stairs)
Insert two finish nails at crossed angles from the front edge of the tread into the riser below. This is the same toe-nailing as in Step 2. Fill nail heads and fill. This will tighten the tread and riser together and stop the rubbing.
Or, apply a thin line of construction adhesive (such as Liquid Nails) along the edge where the tread and riser meet. Let it harden completely before using the stairs. This is a permanent fix that requires not using the stairs for at least 24 hours.

Fix From Below (Open-Back Stairs)
If your stairs have an open back (such as with open stairs going down to a basement), you can use wooden glue blocks inserted into the corners where the tread and riser meet. Cut small blocks of wood in a triangular shape. Apply wood glue to two sides. Press firmly into place on the tread/riser joint. Nail from both sides. These will eliminate any movement between tread and riser from now on.

Key Insight: Fixing your stairs from below using glue blocks is the same solution that professional carpenters use for new staircases to prevent squeaky stairs from the very beginning. This is the most permanent solution for fixing squeaky stairs. Once you use this solution, your stairs will never squeak from that joint again.

Floor Type	Squeak Cause	Best Fix	Access Needed	Difficulty
Hardwood (nail)	Loose nail or subfloor gap	Drive finish nails at angle	Top only	Easy
Hardwood (boards)	Boards rubbing together	Talcum powder or graphite	Top only	Very Easy
Subfloor (joist gap)	Subfloor separated from joist	Screw from below	Below (basement)	Easy
Carpet over subfloor	Loose subfloor under carpet	Squeeeeek No More kit	Top (through carpet)	Easy
Stairs	Tread rubbing on riser	Screw or wood glue blocks	Top or below	Medium

Common Mistakes Beginners Make

Skipping the Diagnosis Step

The most common mistake made is skipping the diagnosis step and going straight into fixing. Hammering nails into the squeak without knowing what the real problem is, when the real problem is movement of the subfloor, won’t fix the problem. Not only will you spend your precious time on the repair, you’ll have a squeaky floor nonetheless. Always conduct a hand pressure test to determine if it’s a surface or a subfloor problem.

Using Screws That Are Too Long

If you’re using a screw that’s even 1/4 inch too long when screwing from below, you’ll damage your hardwood or tile finish floor. Always calculate the distance from the bottom of the joist to the top of the finish floor, then subtract 1/4 inch.

Nailing Without Finding the Joist

It is a total waste of time nailing finish nails in the subfloor without finding the joist. You have nothing to hold onto. The squeak will return in no time. You have to use a stud finder to find the joist. The nails that you drive into the joist will be there forever. The nails that you drive between the joists is a total waste of time.

Using Too Much Powder

When you are using the talcum powder method, you should not use too much powder. Too much talcum powder on the surface of the hardwood floor makes the floor slippery. This is dangerous. You should use just enough talcum powder to get it in between the joints. Then you should remove it entirely from the hardwood floor’s surface using a damp cloth.

Not Filling Nail Holes

Not taking the time to fill the holes left by finish nails means that you will have unsightly holes in your hardwood floor that will especially show up as they collect dirt and turn black over time. It only takes 5 minutes per hole to complete this task. A hardwood floor that is repaired should have no signs of repairs whatsoever.

When to Call a Professional

Squeaky floors are almost always something that can be done as a DIY project, but there are some instances where it might be best to call in a professional for repairs:

• The floor has a soft, bouncy texture when you walk across it. If the floor has this type of texture, then there has been damage to the joist or subfloor, which cannot be done as a DIY project.
• The floorboards have wide spaces between them. If this is the case, then there has been considerable movement in the floor, which could be due to movement in the foundation or excessive moisture damage.
• The squeak has a cracking sound to it. If this is true, then there could be damage to the floor, as the sound you hear when you walk across the floor is more akin to a crack than a squeak.
• The squeak happens in several places on the floor. If the entire floor squeaks, then there could have been damage to the subfloor, or excessive moisture damage.

Safety Warning: If you notice that the floor area surrounding a bathroom or kitchen looks and feels squeaky and spongy to the feet, then it is a sure bet that there has been water damage to the floor, and this type of repair job gets progressively more expensive the longer you wait to call a professional before attempting to make any repairs to the floor.

Final Thoughts

One of the more common repairs where patience and correct diagnosis are more valuable assets than brute strength is a squeaky floor. Once you know what you’re dealing with, the answer is quite obvious.
Start off with the easiest solution and work your way up from there. In my experience, at least half of all squeaky floor complaints can be resolved using Method 1 or 2. The more complex methods are for squeaky floors that do not respond well to the easier methods.

Screwing from below is the gold standard if you have access from below in your basement. It is invisible, permanent, and takes only 15 minutes. If you do not have access from below in your basement, Squeeeeek No More works well for carpeted floors, and finish nail for hardwood floors.