How to Fix Different Types of Leaky Faucets: A Step-by-Step Approach

I still remember my first experience fixing the leaky faucet. I had a faucet in my bathroom, and it had been leaking for weeks. Everyone just ignored it, thinking it was too hard to fix. But then, I decided to learn and fix it myself one afternoon.

It only took me 40 minutes to fix the faucet, and I learned it from watching some videos online. I found out that the cause of the leak was just a small rubber washer, smaller than a coin. I learned that fixing the faucet would cost me less than one dollar!

It is really easy to fix a faucet, and all you need to do is to first identify the type of faucet you have, then turn off the water supply, replace the faulty part inside the faucet, and finally, put everything back together again. This process would only take you 30-60 minutes for the first time, but it would get faster and faster as you do it again and again!

This is a step-by-step guide on fixing leaky faucets, and this guide includes all 4 types of faucets. All you need to do is look at your faucet and find out what kind of faucet you have. Don’t worry, it is really easy!

Recognising the Causes of Faucet Leaks

Before you begin reaching for that wrench, it’s nice to know what’s really going on with that leak. Well, let’s just say that all faucet leaks begin for only one reason: something inside the faucet is either damaged or no longer makes a perfect seal.

What that something is will depend on what kind of faucet you have. In older compression-type faucets, it’s almost always the rubber washer. In cartridge-type faucets, it’s the cartridge itself. In ball-type faucets, it’s the little springs and seats that corrode. In ceramic disc-type faucets, it’s the ceramic discs that crack or are encrusted with mineral deposits.

The good news is that all these parts are replaceable for between $3 and $20. In all cases, it’s less expensive than what it would cost to hire a plumber for one hour.

Key Insight: “A dripping faucet can waste up to 3,000 gallons of water annually,” states the Environmental Protection Agency. “At current water rates, that’s a $20 to $35 annual increase in your water bills – and it’s all coming from a leaky faucet!”

What You’ll Need — Tools and Materials

Gather all of this before you start. You do not want to be halfway into disassembling a faucet and realize that you do not have a particular piece!

Tools

• Adjustable wrench – used to remove nuts and fittings. A 10-inch wrench is all that is needed for most faucets.
• Flat head screwdriver – used to pry caps
• Phillips head screwdriver – used to remove handle screws
• Needle nose pliers – used to remove small clips and cartridges
• Allen wrench – used for ball faucets
• Clean rag or small towel – used to clean and prevent damage

Materials

• Replacement washer set: $4 to $6. You can buy a variety set to get exact matches
• O-ring replacement usually comes in a set with washers. Change all of these every time you change the washer
• Plumber’s grease – also known as silicone grease – is 5 to 7 dollars. Apply this to all rubber pieces before you start assembling.
• Replacement cartridge – used for cartridge faucets only. Get an exact replacement for your brand and model – 8 to 20 dollars
• Ball faucet repair kit – used for ball faucets only. Get an exact replacement for your brand and model – 10 to 15 dollars – includes everything

Pro Tip: Take a picture of your faucet brand, which is normally located at the base of the faucet or on the faucet handle, and the old part you removed before you head to Home Depot. I always do this before I head to Home Depot, and it takes less than 2 minutes to find a replacement by showing it to a Home Depot Associate.

Step 1. Identify Your Faucet Type

There are 4 different types of common faucets used for homes in the US. Each has its installation procedure; therefore, it is important to know the type of faucet used in your home before carrying out any repair works to avoid purchasing the wrong parts.

1. Compression Faucet

Separate handles for hot and cold water. You physically press (compress) a rubber washer against a seat every time you turn it off. These are the oldest types of faucets and are likely to leak more often. Replacing the rubber washer solves the problem most often and only costs $1.

• Identifying feature: separate handles for hot and cold water
• Most common in: older homes, laundry rooms, outdoor hose bibs
• Typical repair cost: $3–6 for washers and O-rings

2. Cartridge Faucet

A faucet with either one handle or two works by opening and closing the cartridge inside with the turning of the handle. This type of faucet is ubiquitous in homes, particularly in bathrooms and kitchens. In case of leakage, it is caused by the cartridge’s deterioration and requires replacement.

• Identifying feature: smooth-turning handle with little to no resistance when the faucet is turned off
• Most common in: modern bathrooms with Moen and Delta faucets
• Typical repair cost: replacement cartridge for $8–$20

3. Ball Faucet

Another type of single-handle faucet is one that rotates over a rounded cap. For its use, one must turn left for hot water and right for cold water; it is controlled by turning it up and down. This type of faucet is commonly used in kitchen sinks. This type of faucet contains more parts, such as the spring, seat, and O-rings. Therefore, it is more difficult to repair compared to the other types of single-handle faucets.

• Identifying feature: single handle with a ball-shaped cap under the faucet
• Most common in: kitchen sinks with Delta Faucets
• Typical repair cost: replacement kit for $10–$15, depending on the brand

4. Ceramic Disc Faucet

A wide lever rests on top of a sturdy, flat, cylindrical body. These parts are surprisingly durable and leak-proof, which is good because the leak usually comes from mineral buildup on the ceramic discs and not because the parts are broken.

• Key identifiers: One wide lever. One sturdy, cylindrical body.
• Most commonly found in: Upscale bathroom faucets.
• Repair cost: $0 if the repair simply involves cleaning the parts. $20 to $40 if the disc cartridge must be replaced.

Step 2. Turn Off the Water Supply

This step is what keeps your repair from turning into a flood. Don’t skip it.

Look under the sink, and you’ll find two small oval valves on the pipes coming from the wall, hot and cold. Turn both of these valves clockwise until they won’t turn any further. This shuts off water to this faucet alone, without affecting the rest of the house. Once you’ve done this, you can start running water to drain any pressure in the pipes. Keep it running and dripping until all is quiet. Then you can begin.

Safety Note: If you find that the valves under your sink are stuck or stiff, don’t try to force them to turn. If they are corroded, they could snap or even crack, and you could end up with a flood.

Pro Tip: If you cannot locate the shut-off valves under the sink, try to trace the water supply lines to the main water shut-off valve. This is usually located in the basement, utility room, crawl space, or outside the home near the foundation.

Step 3. Remove the Faucet Handle

With the water turned off, you can begin disassembling the handle to access the inner parts.

• The topmost part of the handle will contain a cap, usually a combination of plastic and metal, which will be the size of your thumb. You will need to pry the cap off with a flathead screwdriver.
• Under the cap, you will find a screw. Remove the screw with either a flathead or a Phillips screwdriver.
• Pull the handle straight up and remove it. If the handle does not come off easily, wobble the handle slightly as you pull it up, but be careful not to pull too hard.
• Place the screw and the cap in a bowl, as they are easy to lose, and losing them will be a real hassle.

Pro Tip: Before Disassembly, take a clean photo of the faucet’s interior. I learned this the hard way during my first attempt, spending about 20 minutes guessing where the cartridge would go. Now, I always take three photos of the faucet from different angles before I even begin disassembling anything.

Step 4. Fix the Leak — Instructions by Faucet Type

Follow the section that matches your faucet type from Step 1.

1. Fixing a Compression Faucet

Once the handle is removed, you’ll see the hexagonal packing nut. Now’s the time to grab your wrench and unscrew it counterclockwise. Next, pull the stem straight out.

At the base of the stem, you’ll see a rubber washer that’s being held in place by a brass screw. This is almost certainly the problem. If the washer is flat, cracked, or hardened, unscrew it, remove the old washer, and head on over to Home Depot to find an exact replacement.

Both the washer and the O-ring should be replaced at the same time. Before putting everything back, apply a light coat of plumber’s grease to the new parts. Now, put everything back in the exact reverse order that you took it apart.

Pro Tip: You should replace both the washer and the O-ring at the same time. They wear at the same time, and if you only replace the washer, you’ll be replacing the O-ring again in six months.

2. Fixing a Cartridge Faucet

With this handle removed, you will see the cartridge, which is the cylindrical plastic part inside the faucet. This is usually held in place by a U-shaped metal clip or a nut.

To remove it, you will need to grab some needle-nose pliers to remove this metal clip, and then simply pull it straight up. Be sure to note which direction it is in, as it usually has one flat side to indicate which direction it should face.

Then, grab your old cartridge and head to Home Depot to find an identical replacement part for your faucet. Be sure to orient this new part in the same direction as the old part.

Pro Tip: Moen offers a lifetime warranty on their products. Many people miss out on this. Before making a purchase, it is recommended that you call Moen at 1-800-289-6636. I have heard of many DIY enthusiasts receiving a free replacement cartridge from Moen; all they had to pay was postage! It is well worth making the call.

3. Fixing a Ball Faucet

Ball faucets include many parts to replace, such as the spring, seats, O-rings, and the ball. Instead of looking everywhere for these parts, buy a repair kit specific to the brand at Home Depot. Delta and Moen offer repair kits for $10-$15, which include all the parts you need.

Take off the handle and the decorative cap. Remove the cap and collar with an Allen wrench. Remove the ball, springs, and seats, and replace them with the parts included in the repair kit. Apply plumber’s grease to the rubber parts and then put everything back together in the reverse order of how you disassembled the parts.

Important safety information: Ball faucets include small parts such as the spring, which might shoot out when removing the ball. Place a rag over the faucet to catch the parts and prevent them from falling down the drain.

4. Fixing a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Next, you should remove the handle and loosen the nut underneath it to release a retaining piece. Then, you should lift out the ceramic disc cartridge. Once you’ve done that, you should inspect the discs to see if there are any cracks. If you find any cracks, it’s a good idea to change the whole thing. If you don’t find any cracks, you should give them a white vinegar bath to remove any minerals that may have built up. Once you’ve done that, you should dry everything with a soft cloth, without any abrasive tools. Make sure everything is dry before you put it all back together.

Pro Tip: If you are dealing with a faucet that uses a ceramic disc cartridge, you should not put it all back together until you are sure that there is not a trace of moisture inside. Moisture can cause a crack in the disc when water pressure is applied.

Step 5. Reassemble and Test

Reverse the above steps exactly as they were reversed when taking apart. You may use your old photo as a reference. Below are major guidelines to consider:

• Loosen the nut by hand before turning it with your wrench a quarter turn. Do not turn it any further, or it may crack the faucet.
• Before inserting each of the rubber parts, apply plumber’s grease to them.
• Before tightening anything, ensure that the cartridge is properly positioned. If it is not properly positioned, hot and cold water would be mixed.

After completing the installation, turn each of the valves slowly counterclockwise to open the faucet. Be careful not to force it. Let it run for 30 seconds before checking if there are any drips from below the sink. Then turn off the faucet and observe the spout for 60 seconds. If there are no drips from it, then it is complete.

If there are still drips from the faucet, it is most probably from the cartridge or washer not properly seating.

Faucet Type Quick Reference Table

Use this table before buying any parts to confirm what you need:

Faucet Type	Identifying Feature	Part You Replace	Est. Cost	Difficulty
Compression	Two Handles	Rubber washer + O-Ring	$3-$6	Easy
Cartridge	Single or Double Handle	Cartridge	$8-$20	Easy
Ball	Single hand, Rounded ball cap	Springs, seats, O-ring (kits)	$10-$15	Medium
Ceramic Disc	Wide lever, flat cylindrical body	Clean discs or full cartridge	$0-$40	Easy

Common Mistakes Beginners Make

1. Not Turning Off the Water First

I’ve said this before in this guide, and I’ll say it again from hard-won experience: don’t assume you can “just loosen one thing to check” before turning off the water. In five seconds flat, you’ll be swimming and trying to figure out where the shut-offs are. Turn off the water supply before you start. Every time. No exceptions.

2. Buying the Wrong Replacement Parts

Washers and cartridges are not interchangeable. If the washer is even 1mm too small, it will not seal and will continue to leak. Bring the old part with you and make sure to get an exact replacement. If you are unsure, ask someone at the store for help—plumbers at Home Depot are usually incredibly helpful.

3. Overtightening

Too much is too much. Faucet bodies can crack if they are overtightened, especially on older brass faucets. Tighten it enough to hold it in place, and then give it a quarter turn with a wrench. If you are using maximum force, then you are using too much force.

4. Reassembling the Cartridge Backwards

If, after doing all of the above, the hot and cold are still backwards, then this is a strong indication that the cartridge has been installed upside down and backwards. This is precisely the reason why you take a photo before disassembling anything. To reassemble, simply disassemble, flip the whole assembly 180 degrees, and then reassemble.

5. Forgetting to Replace O-Rings

The O-ring and the washer will, over time, need replacement, approximately six months down the line. Failure to replace one or the other means you will be under the sink in half a year, doing the same job over again. Replace both. O-rings cost approximately $2 for 20 pieces.

When to Stop and Call a Plumber

Generally speaking, repairing a leaky faucet is a project within the realm of the beginner do-it-yourselfer. Nevertheless, there are circumstances under which it is better to hire a professional to do the job. When to Hire a Professional to Fix Leaky Faucets

• If the faucet isn’t leaking but rather behind the wall or under the floor, then this is not a faucet problem but rather a pipe problem, and you would do better to hire a plumber to do the job.
• If the valves are corroded or do not turn smoothly, then forcing them could cause them to break, leading to a flood.
• If there is black mold or soft drywall under the sink, then this indicates water damage, and you would do better to hire a professional to do the job.
• If the faucet still leaks despite having been repaired twice, then this indicates there is likely a crack in the faucet itself, and it needs to be replaced.
• If the supply line has corrosion or is green, then this could rupture during the repair process and cause damage to the house.

Safety Note: If you notice any signs of water damage under the sink, such as soft flooring, warped cabinet paneling, and a damp or moldy smell, it is a good idea to stop work and call a plumber immediately. Waiting any longer will only allow damage to get worse and increase repair costs.

Final Thoughts

My introduction to the world of DIY has been fixing the leaky faucet from the start. It’s cheap, quick, and there’s even a certain satisfaction when the water finally stops dripping. The silence is peaceful, or at least it would be if one hadn’t been subjected to the sound of the water dripping for so long, which becomes tiresome on the ears. But the best part is that one saves on the water bill, which could be over $150, and gets to do everything on their own.

The process is more or less the same each time: figuring out what type of faucet one has, turning off the water, taking some photos before touching anything, replacing the worn-out part, greasing the rubber parts with plumber’s grease, and then reassembling without over-tightening.

The first time, the process takes 45-60 minutes. The next time, it’s cut down to approximately 20 minutes. This, of course, is the same with any skill one wishes to acquire.