DIYbeginners

Author name: Raza

Raza is the founder of DIYbeginners. At 24, he built this site to help complete beginners tackle home improvement without expensive professionals or confusing guides. He writes about building, repairing, and buying the right tools — always from a beginner's perspective, always without jargon. Any Questions? Contact!

clogged bathroom sink drain with standing water
Repair

Eco-Friendly Solutions: How to Unclog a Drain Without Using Chemicals

One of those things that, if you hang around for things to get better, they only get worse is a clogged drain. The water sits there in your sink, draining slowly or not draining at all. And then it just sits there, still as a stone, staring at you, and you are staring at it, trying to determine what you are going to do about it. I know. Been there. Done that. More than once. When you have a clogged drain, the first thing you want to do is grab yourself a bottle of Drano or some other kind of drain cleaner and go to work on that clogged drain of yours. But what I have learned the hard way a time or two is that not only are these kinds of chemicals bad for your pipes and bad for the environment, but they may not even solve the clogged drain problem you are experiencing to begin with. It just makes it go away for a while until it clogs up again. But the good news is that most household clogged drains can be solved in 15 to 30 minutes without one single drop of any of those chemicals. I have used all these techniques myself, and I shall give you a genuine review of which ones really work and which ones can be skipped. The article discusses 5 techniques that are really helpful for clearing blocked drains. The techniques range from easy to difficult. The techniques are arranged from easiest to most difficult. You can begin with Technique 1 and move down the list until the water flows freely. Why Chemical Drain Cleaners Are Worth Avoiding I’m not saying that chemical cleaners don’t work sometimes. Sometimes they do. But I can give you three solid reasons why you should try physical cleaners first before resorting to a chemical like Drano. Key Insight: The American Chemical Society indicates that “the active ingredient in most drain cleaners is sodium hydroxide, also called lye.” This chemical may reach as high as 250 degrees F in the pipes. PVC pipes, which are most commonly found in today’s homes, begin to soften when they reach 140 degrees F. What You’ll Need You won’t need all of these for all of the methods. Just get whatever you can, and then follow along with the first method. Pro Tip: Get yourself a drain snake if you don’t already have one before you need it. The 20 dollar Cobra brand hand snake that you can get at Home Depot has cleared every clog that I have ever given it. It will save you money on calling a plumber the first time you need it. Method 1: Boiling Water First, boil water. This is free, only takes 2 minutes to do, and, believe it or not, often works for clogged kitchen sink drains caused by grease or soap scum. Boiling water is best for: Kitchen sinks with grease or soap scum buildups. Slow-draining sinks, but not totally clogged.Not best for: Bathroom drains with hair clogging them. Boiling water does not work for hair clogs. Safety Warning: Never pour boiling water into a porcelain sink or toilet, as the porcelain can crack. Pour slowly down the drain opening, not on top of the sink. Also, do not boil water for pouring into PVC pipes that are already damaged or are over 20 years old. Pro Tip: Add some dish soap to the clogged drain before pouring the boiling water down the drain. The soap helps dissolve grease clogs and washes them down the drain as the boiling water flushes through. Method 2: Baking Soda and Vinegar This is what everyone suggests, and it does, in fact, work. It does not, however, work for the reasons that most people expect it to. The fizzing action that occurs between the two, as they mix, does, in fact, help dislodge the blockage. It is, in fact, the hot water that rinses away the blockage. How to Do It Best for: partial clogs, slow draining, and overall maintenance. This is good to use on bathroom sinks and shower drains. Not best for: clogged drains with standing water. This is because the baking soda will not be able to go through the blockage. Key Insight: Baking soda and vinegar can also be used for your monthly drain maintenance. By pouring this mixture into your drains once a month, you are sure you will not be disturbed by a clog anytime soon. Five minutes of prevention will save you hours of repair. Method 3: The Plunger The best device for clearing a blocked drain is a plunger. The reason that most people assume that a plunger is not effective is that they are not using it correctly. A plunger is effective for clearing almost any type of clog that has not been caused by a solid object or a major buildup of material inside the pipes. First of all, be sure that you are using the right type of plunger. The flat-bottom cup type of plunger, the old-fashioned red rubber one, is for sinks and tubs. The flange type of plunger, with the extra lip of rubber, is for toilets. The wrong type of plunger means no suction at all. How to Use a Plunger Correctly Pro Tip: If you are having trouble getting the plunger to create suction, you can apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to the edge of the rubber cup. This will give you a better seal on the surface of the clogged drain, and it will make a world of difference in terms of suction power. Best for: fully blocked kitchen and bathroom sinks, bathtub drains. Most versatile.Not best for: clogs further down the pipes, as a plunger only works well on clogs near the surface of the drain. Method 4: The Drain Snake If the plunger does not work, then the drain snake will. This is the same method that professional plumbers use as their first

how to patch holes in drywall step by step
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Step-by-Step Instructions for Patching Holes in Drywall: A Complete Guide for Different Hole Sizes

A hole in the wall is a much bigger problem than it really is. The first time I had to deal with a problem like this, a doorknob had basically punched a hole through the wall. It looked terrible. I had to call someone, it was going to cost me money, and I had to wait a week for a repairman to come out to my house. It ended up being a simple fix that I could have done myself in an afternoon. I only had to spend about $12 to fix it. The next morning, the wall looked like new again. I remember stepping back from the wall and not being able to see where the hole had been. There is no better feeling than that. The best way to fix a hole in your drywall is to know which method to use to fix your particular hole. A nail pop is a different fix than a hole that is the size of a fist. Once you know which method is best for your particular problem, it is a simple fix that is inexpensive and invisible. This article will discuss all 5 different sizes of holes that you could have. What Causes Drywall Damage and Why It’s Simple to Fix The white material on our walls, called drywall, sheetrock, or gypsum board, is something that is an almost universal feature in every house in America. Drywall is composed of a gypsum plaster core covered by two pieces of paper on each side. This makes it easy to install, easy to finish, and yes, easy to damage. Doorknobs, furniture, accidents, water damage, and yes, something as innocent as pulling out a nail or two can leave their marks on our walls. Fortunately, the good news is that while drywall is easy to damage, it is also easy to repair. The fundamental idea behind repairing drywall is that you’re not repairing anything except the surface. That’s it. That’s all there is to it. Key Insight: Drywall is an almost universal feature in every house in America, according to the Census Bureau, making up more than 97% of all new residential construction in America. What You’ll Need — Tools and Materials What you need depends on the size of the hole. Here’s the complete list — you won’t need everything for every repair. Tools Materials Pro Tip: The pre-mixed joint compound in a small tub with a purple lid at Home Depot dries faster and is easier to sand than the standard compound. It is almost the Same price. Step 1. Identify Your Hole Size The repair method changes completely based on how large the hole is. Measure your hole before buying anything — this is the most important step. Nail Holes and Small Dings – Under ½ inch The most common form of repairs. Damage is caused by picture hooks, nail holes, small screw holes, and dings. The easiest form of repairs that can be completed within the shortest time, only 5 minutes are required without the use of any tools except your finger and a putty knife. Small Holes – ½ inch to 3 inches Damage is caused by a variety of reasons, such as a doorknob hitting the wall, dings and dents, and the removal of a wall anchor. The damage is too large to be repaired using spackling compound; it needs to be backed by a self-adhesive mesh patch. Medium Holes – 3 to 6 inches Mostly caused by accidents like a fist slam, a heavy object punching through, or a doorknob punch-through. A novice can fix this by using proper techniques. Large Holes – 6 inches and up These require removing the damaged area of the drywall and replacing it with a new piece of drywall, along with a new backing. These are a bit more complicated, but can still be done by a novice who is patient enough. Nail Pops A nail pop is a bump that occurs on the drywall surface. It is usually round in shape. It occurs when a nail or screw starts to protrude from the drywall. In old houses, it is common for wood to dry up and shrink. Removing a nail pop from drywall is different from repairing a hole since it requires putting the nail back into place. Step 2. Prepare the Area Regardless of the size of the hole, the trick to repairing a disappearance is in the prep work. If done correctly, the repair will disappear. Here’s how to do it the right way: Important safety note: Always turn the power off in the room at the breaker box before working on the wall, especially if cutting or drilling. There may be wires inside the wall. A stud finder with AC wiring detection (about $20 at Home Depot) will help you find wires before drilling. Step 3. Patch the Hole — Instructions by Hole Size Follow the section that matches your hole size from Step 1. Fixing Nail Holes and Tiny Dings This is probably the simplest repair you can do on your own. Get some spackling compound. This is a paste similar to toothpaste. Just take a small amount of this compound and push it into the nail hole with your finger. Use a putty knife to spread out the compound on the surface. Let this dry completely. This will take at least a couple of hours or overnight. The compound will probably shrink somewhat as it dries. If the nail hole does not disappear after the compound dries, you should apply a second layer. Once everything is dry, you should sand the area with 220-grit sandpaper and then paint. Pro Tip for Nail Holes: Instead of using a putty knife to spread out the compound on your surface, you should just push the compound into the nail hole with your finger. Use your thumb to wipe away any excess compound. Fixing Small Holes (½ inch to 3 inches) You should use a mesh patch

How to fix a leaky faucet — complete beginner guide
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How to Fix Different Types of Leaky Faucets: A Step-by-Step Approach

I still remember my first experience fixing the leaky faucet. I had a faucet in my bathroom, and it had been leaking for weeks. Everyone just ignored it, thinking it was too hard to fix. But then, I decided to learn and fix it myself one afternoon. It only took me 40 minutes to fix the faucet, and I learned it from watching some videos online. I found out that the cause of the leak was just a small rubber washer, smaller than a coin. I learned that fixing the faucet would cost me less than one dollar! It is really easy to fix a faucet, and all you need to do is to first identify the type of faucet you have, then turn off the water supply, replace the faulty part inside the faucet, and finally, put everything back together again. This process would only take you 30-60 minutes for the first time, but it would get faster and faster as you do it again and again! This is a step-by-step guide on fixing leaky faucets, and this guide includes all 4 types of faucets. All you need to do is look at your faucet and find out what kind of faucet you have. Don’t worry, it is really easy! Recognising the Causes of Faucet Leaks Before you begin reaching for that wrench, it’s nice to know what’s really going on with that leak. Well, let’s just say that all faucet leaks begin for only one reason: something inside the faucet is either damaged or no longer makes a perfect seal. What that something is will depend on what kind of faucet you have. In older compression-type faucets, it’s almost always the rubber washer. In cartridge-type faucets, it’s the cartridge itself. In ball-type faucets, it’s the little springs and seats that corrode. In ceramic disc-type faucets, it’s the ceramic discs that crack or are encrusted with mineral deposits. The good news is that all these parts are replaceable for between $3 and $20. In all cases, it’s less expensive than what it would cost to hire a plumber for one hour. Key Insight: “A dripping faucet can waste up to 3,000 gallons of water annually,” states the Environmental Protection Agency. “At current water rates, that’s a $20 to $35 annual increase in your water bills – and it’s all coming from a leaky faucet!” What You’ll Need — Tools and Materials Gather all of this before you start. You do not want to be halfway into disassembling a faucet and realize that you do not have a particular piece! Tools Materials Pro Tip: Take a picture of your faucet brand, which is normally located at the base of the faucet or on the faucet handle, and the old part you removed before you head to Home Depot. I always do this before I head to Home Depot, and it takes less than 2 minutes to find a replacement by showing it to a Home Depot Associate. Step 1. Identify Your Faucet Type There are 4 different types of common faucets used for homes in the US. Each has its installation procedure; therefore, it is important to know the type of faucet used in your home before carrying out any repair works to avoid purchasing the wrong parts. 1. Compression Faucet Separate handles for hot and cold water. You physically press (compress) a rubber washer against a seat every time you turn it off. These are the oldest types of faucets and are likely to leak more often. Replacing the rubber washer solves the problem most often and only costs $1. 2. Cartridge Faucet A faucet with either one handle or two works by opening and closing the cartridge inside with the turning of the handle. This type of faucet is ubiquitous in homes, particularly in bathrooms and kitchens. In case of leakage, it is caused by the cartridge’s deterioration and requires replacement. 3. Ball Faucet Another type of single-handle faucet is one that rotates over a rounded cap. For its use, one must turn left for hot water and right for cold water; it is controlled by turning it up and down. This type of faucet is commonly used in kitchen sinks. This type of faucet contains more parts, such as the spring, seat, and O-rings. Therefore, it is more difficult to repair compared to the other types of single-handle faucets. 4. Ceramic Disc Faucet A wide lever rests on top of a sturdy, flat, cylindrical body. These parts are surprisingly durable and leak-proof, which is good because the leak usually comes from mineral buildup on the ceramic discs and not because the parts are broken. Step 2. Turn Off the Water Supply This step is what keeps your repair from turning into a flood. Don’t skip it. Look under the sink, and you’ll find two small oval valves on the pipes coming from the wall, hot and cold. Turn both of these valves clockwise until they won’t turn any further. This shuts off water to this faucet alone, without affecting the rest of the house. Once you’ve done this, you can start running water to drain any pressure in the pipes. Keep it running and dripping until all is quiet. Then you can begin. Safety Note: If you find that the valves under your sink are stuck or stiff, don’t try to force them to turn. If they are corroded, they could snap or even crack, and you could end up with a flood. Pro Tip: If you cannot locate the shut-off valves under the sink, try to trace the water supply lines to the main water shut-off valve. This is usually located in the basement, utility room, crawl space, or outside the home near the foundation. Step 3. Remove the Faucet Handle With the water turned off, you can begin disassembling the handle to access the inner parts. Pro Tip: Before Disassembly, take a clean photo of the faucet’s interior. I learned this the hard way

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